The 5 reasons adult surfers stop improving, how to spot each one on film, and the 10-minute land drill that fixes it.
I've coached groms, national champions and pro tour surfers. The adults I coach have usually been surfing for 10 or 20 years, and most of them surf exactly the way they did 10 years ago.
It's almost never age, fitness or the board. It's one habit they can't see from inside their own body. Below are the five I see most. Read them, then film yourself and find yours.
Your board goes where your head goes, and your head goes where your eyes go. Most stuck surfers look at their board or the whitewater right in front of them, so the turn comes out flat and late.
Power comes from compressing low and then extending through the turn. Most adults ride with straight legs, so there's nothing to push with and no way to absorb the wave.
Rail-to-rail turns come from rotating your shoulders and hips, not from waving your arms. Flailing arms look busy but don't turn the board.
If your back foot lands too far up the board, you can't put pressure on the tail. The fins don't engage and the board won't pivot.
The steep part of the wave near the curl is where the speed is. Stuck surfers drift out onto the flat shoulder, run out of speed, then have nothing left for a turn.
That's normal. You can't see your own habits, and that's my job. Send me a clip and I'll tell you which fix to start with, for free. Want me in your corner for 90 days, in Orange County or remote from anywhere? Apply for the Breakthrough.